It's basically another Cheat! card that lets you swap out the attached Item. But it's vulnerable to the Kill the Hireling Go Up a Level card, and anything that makes you lose the Hireling takes the attached Item with it.

If you automatically killed the only monster, combat ended and this whole sequence can't happen. If there were other monsters still fighting, however, this sequence is legal. You get the level and Treasures from the monster you killed after the transferred combat has been resolved. If the other player also wins, you draw Treasures first.

Absolutely. Playing Wand of Dowsing and pulling the card from the discard pile counts as a single action, so the effect of the Curse has to wait until you are done. Even if you had said what card you were going for, you're allowed to change your mind until you actually complete the action. However, once you have pulled the card, the Curse happens – if you don't get a card that will let you cancel the Curse, you have to resolve the Curse's effects before playing the card you just pulled out of the discard pile.

Not even a little. "Discard diving" as a stalling tactic is not in the spirit of the rules. If your opponent knew there was a specific card they wanted to play against you, they should have told you as they went into the discards so you knew they weren't just wasting time. You would have been perfectly correct to call reasonable time if it was clear they were just searching for something to play against you. In informal, friendly games, many groups allow a player to say, "I'm pulling the +10 monster enhancer to play on you," and count that as playing the card even if the dowsing player doesn't yet have it in hand, as long as the card is actually in the discards to be retrieved.

The clear intent is that this is a one-shot card, even though it lacks the magical "Usable once only" language, and so the rules of one-shot cards apply to this one as well. It can be played during combat, and it can be used from the hand. We've fixed this error in recent printings.

No

It's not your turn. The card says the original player "resumes his turn," but that doesn't mean it isn't his turn at that moment, just that you've interrupted the sequence of events on his turn.

If you are fighting one monster, and use Magic Lamp on that single monster, you collect the treasures from that monster. If there are multiple monsters, and you use Magic Lamp to get rid of one of the monsters, you do not get any of the treasures from that monster even if you defeat the remaining ones (you would still get the treasure from those monsters, though).

No

But if you cannot defeat them, then you must try to run away, and you'll lose the two levels even if you do escape. If they catch you, of course, you do suffer the Bad Stuff from those Monsters. (But you don't lose the two levels twice!)

No

The Ghoulfiends text should say "No items or other bonuses help against them – fight with your Level only."

Yes

No

No

Instant Wall allows one or two willing munchkins to Run Away automatically. Instant Wall should be used after the players have decided they need to Run Away but before they roll the die.

Yep. It's like it's not even there. The Stoned Golem makes a bad Wandering Monster because the victims can just ignore it, unless one of the combatants is a Halfling. But if you don't kill it, you don't get its level and Treasures, even if you do kill all remaining monsters!

The helper has to back off and let the player whose turn it is fight the Gazebo, and the other monster(s), alone.

A Mate is like a Wandering Monster. There are now two monsters, and you have to get rid of them individually. (We have found that it is easiest to get rid of the Mate card so the actual monster is still there for reference.) If you play the get-rid-of-it card before somebody tries to play Mate, though, there's no monster left for the Mate to join, so Mate can't be played.

Each Doppleganger duplicates you and you alone, so your combat strength is tripled. Otherwise, you end up with Dopplegangers duplicating each other, which leads in four short steps to a spacetime implosion that ruins everyone's day.

Mate duplicates monster enhancers, not other types of cards. A Doppleganger is an exact duplicate of the player – essentially, figure his combat strength and then double it. If the player's strength changes, so does the Doppleganger's.

No

The combat ended when you failed to kill it.

No

Faced with multiple hostile monsters, one does not get any of their treasures until all are defeated.

The Treasures gained from a charmed monster are no different from Treasures from a monster that is killed, so the Treasures (drawn after the combat is over and all remaining monsters, if any, are defeated) are distributed according to the final agreement that the Wizard negotiated for his help.

No

The card says this is something he may do instead of fighting a monster. It's not for interfering with others' fights, so the Wizard in question must be the munchkin who opened the door or the helper.

No

Discard Hoard! AFTER the three cards are drawn. GREAT try, though!

It goes into your hand for a split second, then triggers the "play immediately" condition. Draw the three cards face down.

If a card makes you draw and choose between cards, and Hoard! is one of those you have to choose between, you do not play Hoard! until you choose it as the card to keep. Then play it immediately.

Draw three more face-up Treasures and discard Hoard! Distribute the now-larger Treasure pile according to the agreement you made with your helper.

Hoard! says it must be played as soon as it is drawn. If you draw a card, and it's Hoard!, play it immediately. If you are dealt Hoard!, play it as soon as you pick up your hand, and draw three face-down Treasures.

No

That's munchkinly thinking, but sorry, that's a max three cards per combat, not three cards per monster.

The player should show the card immediately. All players who can become Clerics may choose to do so and go up a level.

As the card says, no matter how it is drawn, all Clerics go up a level immediately. Show the card, and, if you are a Cleric, play the card in glee. Otherwise, play the card with disgust to show your contempt for those lucky people who are . . .

No

It would be very munchkinly, but the card specifically says "another player."

Yes

No

They're preoccupied.

No

They're preoccupied.

Nothing happens to them. You can't go below Level 1. (Beware the Level 1 Thief – they literally has nothing to lose!)

As long as he has cards to discard.

For purposes of Help Me Out Here, "winning" means beating the monster's combat strength. The Item you take must raise your combat strength enough to beat the monster's (or, as with the Kneepads, immediately lead to that situation). You cannot use Help Me Out Here if you are already winning, you cannot use it to take an Item that isn't strong enough to put you over the monsters, and you cannot use it to take an Item that doesn't change your combat strength.

As long as the person you force to help you can make the difference between winning and losing (per Help Me Out Here's requirements), you most definitely can. Don't expect anyone to like you afterward . . .

Yes

You're required to join the combat, not to try to win.

If it doesn't specify a particular die or tell you that you can roll any die you want, roll the six-sided die that comes with the game (or any other standard six-sided die, if you have several of them within reach).

As they are played. Some games have a "stack" mechanic, where all cards are resolved at once. Munchkin is not one of them.

Only if that's the card you keep. When you are told to decide between cards to keep and discard, the effects of the kept card will go off immediately once you decide that that is the card you are keeping. Otherwise the card you discarded was never in play and never took effect.

The rules say the player chooses their starting sex, and that it defaults to the same as the player's if not otherwise specified. We do recognize that these rules assume strict binary gender. If that makes the game less fun for you and your friends, feel free to ignore gender completely.

Go by the text. If the card says it is a 1 Hand item, it is a 1 Hand item, even if the card art shows it with two hands.

Pick the one that gives you the best outcome and roll a die. If you fail that roll, try with the next ability you have. You can keep trying as long as you have the abilities to do so.

No

If the curse has added a negative effect to the item, a Cheat! card will not remove that effect.

No

Cheat! doesn't take away the Item's properties, it just makes the Item usable for you when it otherwise would not be.

No

The Cheat! card allows you to equip an Item you normally couldn't due to Class/Race/slot/etc. restrictions. In other words, a second piece of Headgear, a second Big item (for non-Dwarves), an Item that requires a Hand or two when your other two are full, or the Bow With Ribbons for non-Elves.

No

Once you perform the initial cheat, the card cannot be moved to another Item. So if something happens to make the cheated Item legal for you . . . too bad.

You STAY dead only until the next person's turn starts. Your new character appears at that point and may join normally in the combat, though you will get no new cards until someone gives you Charity, you get cards as payment for helping in a combat, or your next turn starts.

Yes

Your character does not want to die. Your character will always TRY to Run Away. If you want to die, hope for a bad die roll.

You can't Run Away if you are winning with what you have in play. However, you are not required to exert your full effort to beat a monster, even if you could win handily by playing one-shots or using other cards or abilities. So, in that sense, you would be able to choose to Run Away.

Yes

This is not the original intent of Go Up a Level cards (GUALs), but it is such a munchkinly and vile idea that we liked it too much to say no. But just as when playing a GUAL on yourself, the munchkin must legally be able to gain that level. You cannot play a GUAL card, even one with a secondary effect, on a munchkin at Level 9, and you cannot force another player to do something he doesn't want to do (e.g., discard an Item) by playing a GUAL on him.

No

The munchkin must still try to defeat the monster. But if he cannot defeat it, he automatically escapes without rolling to Run Away, suffering no Bad Stuff. He doesn't get any rewards for failing to defeat the monster!

You cannot use your automatic Run Away ability, because you never even get a chance to try. You can Run Away automatically from any other monsters, even in the same combat, that do not have that restriction. (We have not ruled this consistently in the past, but this is the official answer going forward.)

You certainly can fight the monster. If you do not win the combat and have to Run Away, you escape automatically (no roll required).

Even though curses can be played at any time, you'll have to honor the die roll before doing anything else. So yes, you can Curse before rolling the die, but not between the die roll and the monster's Bad Stuff/your escape. After that, you can resume Cursing as normal.

If the combat is still unresolved (and obviously it is, because people are still playing cards on you for it), then that combat is the "next" one. Most Munchkin games say this explicitly in the rules, but it's true even if we left it out by mistake.

The rule says you must get "a reasonable time" to respond when another player is winning a fight. What your friends are doing is not reasonable; you should be able to read the card to determine what, if anything, you want to do. On the other hand, you cannot take time during a fight to read every card on the table, contemplate your many (or few) options, or use a card to "discard dive," hoping to find something you can use in the fight. The "2.6 seconds" part of the rule is a joke; the intent is that you cannot hold up the game indefinitely just because someone else is winning, or, conversely, that you cannot immediately declare a win before your opponents can react.

Any sort of defeat. If you defeat it without killing it, other players still have a reasonable time to play an applicable card to frustrate you. However, if you removed the only monster from the fight (with Magic Lamp, for instance), the fight is over. Your opponents cannot play monster enhancers or other similar cards that affect a specific monster, because there isn't one there to fight, and they can't use any special rules for bringing in monsters (such as the Shark rules from Munchkin Booty) that depend on having a monster in the fight.

No. You lucked out this time. However, rules that say "When this monster enters combat" do take effect.

Removing the final monster from a combat ends the combat immediately.

Theft doesn't work while you are in combat. Use of a Curse could destroy an Item as you try to use it, but once you play the Item into the fight, it's not yours to be Cursed anymore.

Yes

Yes. If you quit being a Class, you can no longer get a bonus from Class-only items, and so on. You can never get the benefit of two Classes in one combat unless you have a special card that allows it. Exception: Abilities driven by discards work even if the Class with that ability is lost. If a Warrior had already discarded a card to get a +1 combat bonus, and then stopped being a Warrior, he would keep the bonus, but wouldn't be able to discard any more cards for the Warrior bonus. Yes, this rule can be used to the player's advantage. (However, you cannot discard a Class and play another copy of that card to use its abilities twice.)

Yes

Unless it says otherwise on the card itself, monster combat bonuses do stack. This means that the above monster would be a +8.

No

That's because if you're winning, you don't need help, and a true munchkin would never ask for help they don't need. Unless a card says otherwise (and a couple do, for their own weird reasons), you may not ask for help if you are winning a combat.

Monsters win ties, unless at least one of the munchkins in the fight is a Warrior or you have some other card that says you do.

No. If you have cards that let you abolish one entirely (like Pollymorph Potion) then you may do that, and fight the other one(s). (You will have to win that fight before you can claim any treasure at all . . . you can't charm one monster, grab its treasure, and then try to fight its mate.) But you can't fight one and flee the other. They fight you together.

When one player helps another, the monsters do not fight the players separately . . . so if one player is female, the wandering Amazon would donate a Treasure and leave without fighting. (Remember that Treasures always go to the main fighter to distribute according to whatever agreement was reached.)

A monster's immunity (or weakness) is given to all others in the fight. (This does not include straight combat bonuses or penalties; if one monster gets a -2, that doesn't mean EVERY monster has a cumulative -2 – it's -2 for the monsters taken as a group. And if a monster won't fight, that doesn't mean EVERY monster won't fight, just that one.) If it helps, think of the combat as a combined encounter, and the various immunities or weaknesses as conditions affecting the encounter.

No. The only sort of cards that can be played to the table but not used are Items.

Yes

You get the "all the advantages, none of the disadvantages" benefit of Half-Breed for your other Race, but you can't use Human-only items or claim bonuses against monsters that have trouble fighting Humans. (As a practical matter, there are very few of these, so this doesn't come up that often.) Note that this answer is specific to Race and Half-Breed.

No

Unless you want to make it a house rule, of course. Munchkin 7 – Cheat With Both Hands has cards that allow you to have three or even more Classes or Races, among other crazy new overpowered cards you didn't realize you needed.

No

Each player may have only one copy of a specific Class in play. In other words: If you are a Super Warrior and have another Warrior card, you can not play it on yourself without discarding the Warrior card already in play.

You can turn from, e.g., a Super Cleric-Wizard into a Super Cleric, or, if you have the Thief card, Cleric-Thief. This doesn't make you lose Super Munchkin. You cannot have a "naked" Super Munchkin card in play, even briefly.

Yes

You can discard a Class at any time. You can play a Class at any time on your turn. There's no requirement that the new Class be different from the old one. So, yes.

No

As long as you play the new Class immediately after discarding the old Class, no. Think of switching a Class as one action with two parts (discarding the old Class, playing a new Class) so that action has to complete before any other actions would start.

You can only play a Loaded Die on your own roll, not on someone else's roll. You can only play a Reloaded Die on someone else's roll, not your own. Your friends are right; to change your roll back, you would have to use a second Loaded Die card.

You may change the status of your Items at any time that you are not in combat or otherwise engaged (e.g., you cannot swap Items around prior to rolling to Run Away or before dealing with the effects of a Curse).

No

Some experienced Munchkin players use the term "backpack" to talk about Items that you are carrying but not currently using, but that term is not found in any official rules and we discourage its use. (To add to the mess, there are a couple of Treasures that actually are Backpacks and mean something entirely different. Really, it's best not to use the term.)

Steeds (Vehicles, Ships) cannot be unequipped at all and certainly not to play another one. If you can't use your Steed for some reason, you must get rid of it as an extra Big item. (If, somehow, you find yourself with a Steed [etc.] that you can't use but can't get rid of, it does count against your Big item total; you only get to ignore a Steed's Bigness when you're actually riding it.)

A. "-1 Hand" means you get an extra Hand; all the cards that use Hands have positive numbers, such as "1 Hand," at the bottom. If you add up the numbers of Hands on your cards in use, you're OK as long as you get 2 Hands or fewer – that's why cards that give you extra Hands are negative.

This depends on the type of card. First, it must be in play in front of you (no discarding other people's cards, silly). Race and Class cards (including Half-Breed and Super Munchkin), and other similar cards, can be discarded at any time, including to power a special ability, but not an ability for the discarded Race or Class (unless the ability requires discarding that particular Race or Class). Curses that remain on the table in front of you cannot be discarded. Item cards are the only cards that can be traded, and, as long as they aren't prevented from being discarded (say, by a Curse), can only be discarded in the following ways: As part of a sale To power a special ability of a Class/Race or another card To fulfill the requirements of Bad Stuff or a Curse/Trap/Disaster The Item is Big and you MUST get rid of it (e.g., because your Hireling died or you are no longer a Dwarf), and there is no one who can take it

In a more rigorous game, we would have labeled all the swords, axes, etc. as "weapons." Try to use common sense, even if this IS Munchkin. As a general rule, any item that uses Hands and is not already labeled as something else can be considered a weapon, as can items like the Singing and Dancing Sword that are obviously weapons.

No

If the Items aren't worth a total of at least 1,000 Gold Pieces, you can't sell them.

Yes

"No Value" is exactly the same as "0 Gold Pieces," so you can sell these Items unless the card says otherwise. (But "No Value" must appear on the card! If a card has nothing at all listed for a value, it is not an Item and cannot be sold.)

All one-shot Items (those which say "usable once only") may be played directly from the hand or from the table unless the card says otherwise.

If it's a liquid in a container, it can be considered a potion. (But note that other types of one-shot Items, such as Grenades and Ichors, must include that specific word! Potions are special. Also note that Ichors aren't Potions and Potions aren't Ichors.)

The player whose turn it is discards everything. If the order is important, they set that as well.

After combat

The one-shot card does not move to the discards until the battle is over. However, you no longer "own" that card, unless someone plays something to reboot the combat and return all cards to their owners, in which case you resume ownership.

Only those on the table. If you are meant to lose cards from your hand, this will be specified.

Never draw from the discards unless you are specifically told to do so. A face-up draw means take the top card from the appropriate deck and turn it over for everyone to see. A face-down draw means take the top card from the deck and put it in your hand, or play the card if it is legal to do so at that time.

No

You have to resolve the Curse before doing anything else, unless you have a way to cancel the Curse completely (e.g., a Wishing Ring).

Not unless the Curse itself says so. Sucks to be cursed, but, well, you knew that . . .

If it's important to your group that choices be truly random, then either close your eyes when you pick a card, roll a die, or have the other player mix up the cards below the table and you tell him which number card you want.

Cards that are in your hand are not in play and don't count as anything but cards until you play them. (For instance, if you are told to lose your Armor and you have an Armor card in your hand, you can't lose that one.) Your cards on the table are cards in play and these represent what they say they are. For example, a Race card is a card and a Race.

No

In most cases, follow the card. But there are a few rules that can't be broken unless a card explicitly says so.

If it's not in the rules, it doesn't matter how logical it is, unless you can talk the other players into it. And if you can, go for it!

If they were truly simultaneous and you can't agree on anything else, each player who wanted to do something should roll the die; high roll decides what order the cards happen. If that makes later cards moot, well, that's the way the game goes. (But: abilities that require discards don't happen until the discards hit the table. This is a good reason not to announce your plays until you are ready to make them!)

Card effects happen as the cards are played, in the order they are played. Unless you have a card or an ability that says it can cancel another card or effect (for instance, a Wishing Ring can cancel a Curse before it takes effect), you have to resolve every card, in the order it was played, before doing anything else.

No

You can play as many as you have in your hand. But so can everyone else . . .

The victim of the Curse decides, unless a card says otherwise.

It depends on the exact wording of the Curse. If the Curse says "Lose the Armor You Are Wearing," it must be Armor that you are using (and therefore gaining the benefits of). If it is "Lose One Armor," you would lose any single Armor card you had in play. And if it is just "Lose Your Armor," discard everything you have in play that is Armor. Cheated Armor is still Armor!

When you are in combat with more than one monster, you cannot resolve ANY aspect of the combat until ALL monsters are defeated or until the munchkins flee. This means that if you use an ability to make one monster disappear, you cannot claim levels and/or Treasures for beating it (depending on the method used) unless you can then kill or defeat all the remaining monsters. You cannot, for instance, use your Wizard to charm one monster and take its Treasures before fighting the rest. Combat isn't over until the WHOLE combat is over. One thing to remember is that if a monster has a special ability, it applies to the entire combat. A monster that is immune to fire/flame attacks, for instance, means that no fire/flame attacks give a bonus at all, even if other monsters don't share that vulnerability.

For the purposes of the game, "defeating" a monster involves beating it in combat or removing it from play in such a way that you do not have to Run Away. This means that if a Wizard casts a charm spell, or a munchkin uses a Pollymorph Potion, or something else happens that ends a fight without the munchkins Running Away, the monster is defeated. This may or may not grant Treasures, depending on the method of defeat; assume it does not unless the card or method says otherwise. "Killed" means that you defeated the monster with your Level and bonuses in combat, or used some card or special ability that specifically states that it kills the monster. For this, you get levels and Treasure.

Sometimes

You may not play new Items during combat, whether it is your turn or not, except for any one-shot Item (one of those that say "usable once only") that says it can be used in any combat.

No

You can't switch Items during combat. In other words, you can't choose to equip a different Headgear or different Armor once combat has started. You also can't unequip one Item that uses Hands and equip another in its stead. Basically, all your Items must remain in their current states . . . even if some of them become unusable.

No

The general rule is that you may not reach Level 10 except by killing a monster. If you are at Level 9 and something else happens that would normally let you go up a level . . . you don't. You stay at Level 9. If you have a card or an ability that lets you mess with another player and get a level in return, you cannot play that card or use that ability. BUT . . . certain cards specifically overrule this. If the card explicitly says that it can end the game, or that the level it grants can be the winning level, then obviously it can be. The corollary is that if the card does not say it can be the winning level, then it cannot be. Note also that ANY level gained as a result of killing a monster counts as the winning level. (If a card says a monster is automatically defeated, this counts as a kill unless the card says otherwise.) If you have a character ability that lets you get an extra level after winning certain combats (e.g., the level an Elf gains for helping in combat), that level can be the winning level. A Go Up a Level card played after combat, however, cannot be, because the card does not itself kill the monster. You cannot use a card or ability to force someone to help you if the combat is for the win. If you have forced someone to help and then the combat becomes one for the win, your helper is kicked out of the fight without penalty and you must fight alone (or ask someone to help – good luck with that). On the other hand, if you force someone to help and they would win the game, they get to stay in . . . be careful whose help you accept!

See the following rule(s) to find an answer to this question.

No

No

3-6

Yes

No

No

5

But, this is enforced only at the end of your own turn, not during other players' turns.

Reshuffle it.

No